Adventure Collective Journal

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Climbing a Living Glacier: Sólheimajökull’s Vertical World

Climbing a Living Glacier: Sólheimajökull’s Vertical World

Learn to swing an ice tool on a living glacier and walk away with both skill and perspective

Vík, Southern Region
By Eric Crews
climbing mountaineering, land adventuresAugustsummer

The first thing you notice as the van eases off the ring road is the color: a hard, ancient blue that looks like light filtered through old glass. The ice sits in the valley like a pale animal breathing slowly, its crevasses yawning and closing with a rhythm that feels almost deliberate. On a clear morning the wind carries snow dust across the glacier’s skin, and the world narrows to crampons, rope, and the one clean line of possibility leading up a sheer ice wall. This is Sólheimajökull — a living, moving glacier in southern Iceland that dares the curious to test vertical ice.

Trail Wisdom

Layer for changeable weather

Bring a breathable shell, an insulating mid-layer, and thin dexterous gloves to adjust quickly on the ice.

Trust your crampons and tools

Let guides coach your footwork and tool placements—momentary hesitation increases fatigue and risk.

Protect your phone

Cold and bumps are hard on electronics—use a dry bag or keep devices close to your body.

Hydrate before and after

Cold suppresses thirst; sip fluids frequently and bring a high-calorie snack for the return to base.

Local Knowledge

Hidden Gems

  • Walk the black sand at Sólheimasandur near the plane wreck for a contrasting landscape
  • Visit nearby Gljúfrabúi waterfall, hidden behind a narrow canyon for a quieter waterfall experience

Wildlife

Arctic fox (rare), Various seabirds along the coast including puffins in season

Conservation Note

Sólheimajökull is retreating due to climate change—respect marked routes, avoid collecting ice samples, and pack out all waste to reduce local impact.

The glacier is an outlet of Mýrdalsjökull, which overlies the Katla volcanic system; ash bands in the ice record past eruptions.

Seasonal Guide

spring

Best for: Stable daylight, Accessible ice formations

Challenges: Variable melt, Cold nights

Spring brings long days and firm ice early in the season; expect rapidly changing conditions as temperatures rise.

summer

Best for: Mild temperatures, Long daylight hours

Challenges: Increased melt, Potential for soggy moraines

Summer offers comfortable air temps and excellent visibility, though ice features soften in the afternoon.

fall

Best for: Fewer crowds, Crisper ice

Challenges: Shortening daylight, Unpredictable storms

Fall tightens the window for climbs but rewards early-season solidity and dramatic light for photos.

winter

Best for: Unique ice sculptures, Solitude

Challenges: Extreme cold, Limited daylight

Winter tours highlight sculpted ice and quiet expanses but require robust gear and weather flexibility.

Photographer's Notes

Use a polarizing filter to deepen blue tones and cut glare; shoot low to emphasize crevasse depth, bracket exposures for high-contrast scenes, and keep batteries warm in an inner pocket to preserve charge.

What to Bring

Waterproof shell jacketEssential

Protects from wind and melt spray while allowing active movement.

Insulating midlayerEssential

Keeps core warm between climbs and during pauses.

Sturdy hiking boots (rigid sole)Essential

Compatibility with crampons and solid ankle support for uneven ice and moraine.

Gloves with dexterityEssential

Thin liner plus warmer outer gloves let you manipulate tools and ropes efficiently.

Common Questions

Do I need prior climbing experience?

No prior experience is required; guides provide instruction for beginners and scale challenges for more advanced guests.

How cold does it get on the glacier?

Temperatures are typically 0–10°C in summer and can drop well below freezing in winter; wind chill can make it feel colder, so layer appropriately.

What is the maximum group size?

Guides usually limit groups to six participants to ensure safety and personalized instruction.

Are kids allowed on the tour?

Age policies vary by operator; many require participants to be at least 12–14 years old and capable of following safety instructions.

Is the activity refundable or reschedulable?

Operators commonly offer flexible cancellation for weather-related changes—confirm the specific policy at booking.

Do you provide gear?

Yes; reputable tours supply helmets, harnesses, crampons, and ice tools—bring your own boots and base layers.

What to Pack

Sturdy hiking boots (for crampon compatibility), insulated midlayer (warmth during pauses), waterproof shell (protection from melt and wind), snacks/water (maintain energy on ice)

Did You Know

Sólheimajökull has retreated more than a kilometer since the late 20th century, leaving visible moraines that track the glacier's recent history.

Quick Travel Tips

Book tours in advance during summer, bring your own boots, expect variable cell service near the glacier, plan soups or hot drinks after the tour in Vík

Local Flavor

After the climb, head to Vík for lamb stew or a lamb soup at a local café, sample Icelandic rye bread, and warm up with a craft beer at a guesthouse where locals trade weather stories.

Logistics Snapshot

Closest airport: Keflavík International Airport (KEF) / Drive to trailhead: ~2–2.5 hours from Reykjavík; Driving distance from Vík: 20–30 minutes / Cell service: intermittent near glacier / Permits: none required for guided tours

Sustainability Note

Glacier ecosystems are fragile and retreating; stay on marked paths where provided, use established operators that follow Leave No Trace principles, and avoid disturbing meltwater streams.

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