Two Lions, One Dawn: Climbing Pidurangala and Sigiriya from Colombo

Two Lions, One Dawn: Climbing Pidurangala and Sigiriya from Colombo

Sunrise on Pidurangala, stairs up the Lion Rock—two climbs, one unforgettable day.

Sigiriya, Central Province
By Eric Crews
climbing mountaineering, land adventuresAugustsummer

Just before dawn, the plains around Sigiriya hold their breath. Palms go still. A soft wind prowls the grass. As you step from the tuk-tuk at Pidurangala Temple, the rock ahead looks like a sleeping animal—broad-backed, watchful, waiting to see if you’ll make the first move. A monk’s bell rings once, faint in the cool air. You pull a sarong over your knees to pass the temple, tighten your laces, and begin the climb.

Trail Wisdom

Go Pidurangala First

Aim for sunrise at Pidurangala, then tackle Sigiriya by mid-morning to avoid the heaviest crowds and midday heat.

Dress Modestly at the Temple

Shoulders and knees must be covered to pass Pidurangala Temple; carry a lightweight sarong or scarf in your daypack.

Mind the Scramble

The final section of Pidurangala involves hands-on scrambling over smooth granite—wear grippy shoes and keep three points of contact.

Respect the Rock (and Hornets)

At Sigiriya, keep voices low near posted areas; hornets can be provoked by loud noise. Follow ranger guidance and signs.

Local Knowledge

Hidden Gems

  • Reclining Buddha ruins partway up Pidurangala
  • Mirror Wall inscriptions and Lion Paws terrace on Sigiriya

Wildlife

Toque macaques, Grey langurs

Conservation Note

Sigiriya is a UNESCO World Heritage Site; stay on marked paths, avoid touching frescoes, and never feed wildlife.

Sigiriya was transformed into a sky palace by King Kasyapa in the 5th century CE; monks displaced during construction were resettled at Pidurangala.

Seasonal Guide

spring

Best for: Clear mornings, Wildlife sightings

Challenges: Rising heat by April, Isolated thunderstorms

March to May brings warm, often clear mornings ideal for sunrise on Pidurangala, with occasional afternoon showers.

summer

Best for: Dry trails, Consistent visibility

Challenges: High temperatures, Intense midday sun

June to August is typically dry in the Dry Zone around Sigiriya—expect strong sun and plan early starts.

fall

Best for: Lush landscapes, Fewer crowds

Challenges: Inter-monsoon showers, Slippery rock surfaces

September to November can bring periodic rain that greens the plains; pack a light shell and watch your footing.

winter

Best for: Cooler mornings, Soft light

Challenges: Northeast monsoon influence, Short rain bursts

December to February offers pleasant temperatures with brief showers—mornings are especially comfortable for climbing.

Photographer's Notes

Shoot sunrise from Pidurangala with a 24–70mm to frame Sigiriya against the plains, then switch to a telephoto for fresco details and the Lion Paws. Use a polarizer to cut haze and deepen greens, and bracket exposures on the summit where bright sky meets dark brick. Keep gear secure—monkeys are curious—and pack a microfiber cloth for humid mornings.

What to Bring

Lightweight Hiking Shoes with GripEssential

Crucial for Pidurangala’s smooth granite scramble and the many stairs on Sigiriya.

2 Liters of Water + ElectrolytesEssential

Heat and humidity demand steady hydration; add electrolytes to prevent cramping.

Sun Protection (Hat, SPF 50, Sunglasses)Essential

Open rock and exposed steps make sun coverage essential, especially in the dry season.

Modest Cover-Up (Sarong/Scarf)

Needed to pass Pidurangala Temple respectfully if your hiking attire doesn’t cover shoulders and knees.

Common Questions

Can I climb both Pidurangala and Sigiriya in one day?

Yes—sunrise at Pidurangala followed by a mid-morning ascent of Sigiriya is a popular, efficient plan.

Do I need a guide?

Not for the climbs themselves, though a licensed guide at Sigiriya can enrich the visit with history and context.

Is there a dress code?

To pass Pidurangala Temple, shoulders and knees must be covered. Sigiriya has no strict dress code, but modest attire is respectful.

Are there entrance fees?

Yes—Sigiriya requires a ticket purchased on-site, and Pidurangala typically requests a small donation to the temple.

How many steps are at Sigiriya?

Expect more than 1,000 steps from the water gardens to the summit, with some sections exposed and steep.

Can I fly a drone?

Drone use is tightly regulated and typically not permitted at Sigiriya without official authorization from relevant authorities.

What to Pack

Grippy hiking shoes for Pidurangala’s scramble; 2L of water plus electrolytes to handle heat; sun hat and high-SPF sunscreen for exposed rock; lightweight sarong/scarf to respect the temple dress code.

Did You Know

The Mirror Wall at Sigiriya preserves hundreds of poems and visitor inscriptions dating from the 8th to 10th centuries, offering one of South Asia’s earliest records of vernacular verse.

Quick Travel Tips

Depart Colombo before 3:30 a.m. to make Pidurangala sunrise; carry cash for donations and small purchases; buy Sigiriya tickets at the site and keep them handy for checkpoints; combine with Dambulla Cave Temple if you plan an overnight in the area.

Local Flavor

After the climbs, refuel in Sigiriya or Dambulla with rice and curry, string hoppers, and a fresh king coconut. Try fiery pol sambol and cool it with wood-apple juice. In the evening, a cold Lion Lager pairs perfectly with sunset views across paddy fields.

Logistics Snapshot

Closest airport: Bandaranaike International (CMB), Colombo. Trailheads: Pidurangala Temple car park; Sigiriya ticket office and water gardens. Drive time: 3.5–5 hours from Colombo; 25 minutes between Dambulla and Sigiriya. Cell service: Generally good in towns; intermittent on the rocks. Permits: Sigiriya entrance ticket required; modest dress and small donation at Pidurangala Temple.

Sustainability Note

Pack out all waste, keep voices low near wildlife and signed hornet zones, do not touch or photograph with flash near the frescoes, and avoid feeding monkeys—human food harms them and disrupts natural behavior.

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