Cracking the Columns: A Guided Climb on Devils Tower
An all-day, multi-pitch classic on America’s first National Monument—where vertical cracks and living culture shape the climb
Just after sunrise, the columns of Devils Tower turn the color of hammered copper. Shadows pull back from the boulder field, magpies call from the pines, and the whole formation seems to stand a little taller, flexing as the day warms. The Tower doesn’t just rise—it asserts, ribbed with near-perfect cracks that dare your hands and feet to solve their lines.
Trail Wisdom
Respect the June Voluntary Closure
Out of respect for Indigenous cultural practices, climbers observe a voluntary closure in June. Plan your trip for other months.
Start Before Sunrise
Beat afternoon thunderstorms and heat by launching early; aim to be descending by early afternoon in summer.
Tape for Crack Climbing
Bring athletic tape or crack gloves to protect your hands and speed up your jamming on sustained pitches.
Register, Then Deregister
Climbers must register at the NPS kiosk before climbing and check out afterward. It’s quick and helps rangers with safety and resource management.
Local Knowledge
Hidden Gems
- •Joyner Ridge Trail for sunset views of the Tower’s full profile
- •Prairie dog towns near the park road—great for a quick wildlife stop
Wildlife
Peregrine falcon, Prairie dog
Conservation Note
Use minimal chalk and brush off marks, pack out tape and trash, stay on established approaches, and honor the June voluntary closure to protect cultural values and the resource.
Designated in 1906 by President Theodore Roosevelt, Devils Tower is the first U.S. National Monument and remains a sacred site for many Northern Plains Tribes.
Seasonal Guide
spring
Best for: Cool temps, Quieter routes
Challenges: Lingering snow/ice on shaded approaches, Unsettled weather
Expect crisp mornings, variable conditions, and excellent friction. Watch for wet cracks after storms.
summer
Best for: Long daylight, Dry rock after quick showers
Challenges: Heat on sunny aspects, Afternoon thunderstorms, Crowds
Start early, hydrate, and keep an eye on the sky. Plan to be off the wall by mid-afternoon when storms build.
fall
Best for: Stable weather, Prime friction
Challenges: Shorter days, Chilly/windy belays
Arguably the best season for climbing here: clear skies and comfortable temps, with layers needed for shady belays.
winter
Best for: Solitude
Challenges: Cold temps, Ice/snow on routes and approaches
Climbing is limited and often not advisable. If attempting, expect very cold conditions and short days.
Photographer's Notes
What to Bring
Climbing HelmetEssential
Protects against small rockfall and bumps in chimneys and offwidths—mandatory on this formation.
Crack-Friendly Climbing ShoesEssential
A supportive, low-profile shoe improves jamming comfort and precision on sustained cracks.
Approach Shoes with Good TreadEssential
Sticky rubber and support help on the talus approach and while scrambling at belays.
Athletic Tape or Crack Gloves
Protects skin and speeds up movement on repeated jams during long pitches.
Common Questions
Do I need prior crack or multi-pitch experience?
No. A certified guide will tailor the route to your abilities and teach crack techniques and multi-pitch systems along the way.
What happens if thunderstorms build while we’re on the route?
Guides monitor forecasts and conditions closely; if storms develop, the plan may shift to shorter objectives or a timely retreat to keep you safe.
Is climbing Devils Tower allowed in June?
Climbing is not prohibited, but there is a widely observed voluntary closure in June out of respect for Indigenous cultural practices. Please plan outside of June.
Are permits required to climb?
You must register at the climber’s kiosk before starting and check out after; there’s also a park entry fee for vehicles.
How long is the day?
Expect about 8 hours, including the approach, multiple pitches, summit time, and rappels back to the base.
What is the guide-to-climber ratio?
Ratios vary by route and conditions, but many climbs follow a 1:1 or 1:2 model to maintain safety and efficiency.
What to Pack
2–3 liters of water to stay ahead of High Plains heat; sun protection (hat, SPF 30+, sunglasses) for exposed belays; approach shoes with grippy soles for talus; athletic tape or crack gloves to protect hands on long jamming sections.
Did You Know
Devils Tower was proclaimed the United States’ first National Monument on September 24, 1906, by President Theodore Roosevelt.
Quick Travel Tips
Closest major airport is Rapid City (RAP), about 2 hours by car; register to climb at the NPS kiosk before and after your climb; expect spotty cell service at the base and on route; there’s a vehicle entry fee for the monument—bring a card or cash.
Local Flavor
Post-climb, refuel at the Ponderosa Café in Hulett for hearty Wyoming fare, or head to Sundance for steaks and a cold beer at local saloons. If you’re up for a short detour, Spearfish, SD, has craft beer and coffee shops worth the drive. Browse the Devils Tower Trading Post for a quick milkshake and a souvenir patch on your way out.
Logistics Snapshot
Closest airport: Rapid City (RAP) ~2 hours; Secondary: Gillette (GCC) ~1.5 hours. Trailhead: Parking at Devils Tower National Monument base. Distance from Hulett: ~9 miles. Cell service: Limited to spotty near the base; mostly unreliable on-route. Permits: Park entry fee; climber registration required at kiosk; observe the June voluntary closure.
Sustainability Note
Pack out all tape, food wrappers, and micro-trash; minimize chalk use and brush holds; stick to established approaches; and respect the June voluntary closure to support cultural values and long-term route health.
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